Using Decals and
By Anthony Karl Erdelji
Decals, or water-slide transfers, are a great way
to get perfect insignias, logos, lettering, or unit markings onto your models.
They are simple to use provided you follow prepare the surface properly. The decals
used in this article are from I-94 Enterprises
on a Battlefront M5A1 Stuart
Before applying the decal the surface of the
model must be prepared. Brush the area that will receive the decal with some
gloss varnish, or Future Floor Polish, and allow to dry. This gloss coat
gives us a smooth surface to work with, preventing air bubbles from getting
trapped under the decal. A glossy surface is the most important and easiest
step towards good looking decals!
|Begin by cutting out the decal. Always use a
hobby knife and fresh blade to cut around the decal. Cut as close to
the printed area of the decal as possible.
||Fill any clean, shallow vessel with regular tap water. I use a
small painting palette. (I know it doesn't look clean, but those are
permanent stains that won't bother the decal. No, really!)
Using a pair of
tweezers, hold the decal underwater for 10 seconds. Give it a little
shake to remove any air bubbles.
|Allow the decal to rest on some newspaper. The
newspaper will absorb excess water and prevent the decal from
floating off the paper prematurely. After about 30 seconds the decal will be
ready for application. Test to see if it is ready by gently pushing the decal with a brush. If it moves
from the paper, it's ready. If not,
wait another 30 seconds.
Now is a good time to talk about
expiration dates. Decals have a shelf life of about 3 years. After a few
years the glue holding the decal onto the paper breaks down, fusing
decal and paper together. The decal can still be salvaged,
but it may require an extended soak. Perhaps up to 5
minutes or longer.
There are all sorts of decal solutions and
"sets" on the market. Basically, they are weak acids that dissolve the
plastic film of the decal, allowing it to better form to the contours of the
surface and/or obscure the edges of the decal. However if the surface has
been prepared properly, and assuming the area receiving the decal is flat,
decal solutions are not necessary. I have used several different brands of
decal set and have not noticed and difference between using them and plain
water, in most situations. If you still want to try some out, I would
suggest Mr. Mark Softer by Gunze Sangyo.
||The area receiving the decal must be
moist. Add a drop of water or decal solution to the surface of the
Use tweezers to position
the decal on the
model. Using your other hand and a brush, hold the decal in place
and pull the paper away. Remember; pull the paper from the decal. Do
not push the decal off the paper.
Once the decal is off the paper, use a brush to
adjust it into the desired position. If you are having problems moving the
decal add a bit more water. If you are still having difficulties pushing the
decal into place with a brush, you can try pulling it into position
using the tip of a sharp hobby knife. Needless to say, this takes a delicate
touch to avoid tearing the decal.
|With the decal in its proper position,
wrap a cloth towel around a finger and gentle press on one side of
the decal. Then roll your finger across to the other
side of the decal. Do not rub! Rolling will prevent tearing and air
bubbles form being trapped beneath the decal.
Applying more than one decal? Go back now
and repeat the steps.
||After the decal dries for about 15
minutes take a dry brush and clean the surface of any decal or paper
debris. The final step is to seal the decal by applying a second
coat of gloss varnish. Now you are done..... maybe.
|We now have nice bright and clean
decals on our model. However, anything bright and clean is the last
thing that belongs on something like a tank. A decal can be
weathered in two ways. The first method is to mix a tiny amount of
brown ink into the final sealing layer of gloss varnish. This
results in an even, uniform layer of "dirt" on the decal. I only use
this option when I want the decal only dulled, not necessarily
A second option, which I
think looks better on mucked up vehicles, is drybrushing and spot
washes. This decal article was written in conjunction with another
article on painting and weathering the tank featured here. If you
want to learn more check out
||The hood of this M3 halftrack has two
channels running through the decal. The decal was applied as normal,
but before the final gloss coat take a sharp knife and carefully cut
the decal down the length of the channel. Then apply the gloss
|This application is a bit more
difficult. The checkerboard-pattern decal had to be applied around
the molded star on the shoulder. This was accomplished by making a
template to cut the decal. Take a bit of clear plastic from a
miniature blister package. Hold the plastic over the shoulder and
use a felt-tip pen to trace the shape of the star, and then cut the
shape out with a sharp hobby knife. Then use your template to cut
the decal to the proper shape.
||I would be remiss if I did not mention
the dreaded Games Workshop Ultramarine decal. A round decal over a
round surface, like a marine shoulder pad, is the most difficult
type of application. However by cutting a small wedge out of
the decal we can turn a difficult job easy. Don't worry about the
missing area. The two sides will match back up once the decal is
curving around the shoulder pad.